A current lipstick collection will have several colors to suit all skin types and colorings, ranging from authentic reds to rose, pink, and coral, as well as grey and browns. Shades change with the styles of clothing that are trendy at the moment, but many women pick a single color and remain with it for a long time. So, in this article, I will give you complete information about the formulation and preparation of different types of lipstick.
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Lipstick
Lipstick, is unquestionably the most prevalent type of lip makeup, consisting of a wedge- or 'bullet'-shaped stick that is hot-molded and then cooled before being put in a little plastic cup or godet that is contained in a plastic or metal container. A screw or push action can be used to move the godet up and down inside the case. When the stick is at the bottom of the case, a cap seals the entire thing.
Lipsticks normally come in this specialized form of container, which is cylindrical and particularly intended for easy application while protecting the stick. Modern systems required more complex components that prevent volatile compounds from evaporating.
Oils, waxes, and pigments are the three primary types of raw ingredients used in lip cosmetics, with the ratios variable depending on the product type.
Castor oil is the most common oil found in lipsticks. It is quite thick and retains its viscosity even when heated, making it suitable as a suspending medium for colorants. It has a pleasant taste if high-quality ingredients are utilized. Castor oil, unlike most other oils, is soluble in alcohol and has surface action. Because of this, as well as its high viscosity, it is ideally adapted to the wetting and dispersion of pigments, a function that is critical during the manufacturing of lipsticks. One of the most often used waxes, beeswax, is primarily soluble in castor oil, resulting in an even more viscous but sticky solution that imparts drag to the finished formulation and helps prevent the product from 'creeping' or 'bleeding' into the small fine wrinkles around the lips.
The biggest downside of using castor oil is that it is inherently unstable. This can be addressed by adding a little number of antioxidants, such as butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT). Without them, both the smell and taste of the substance grow disagreeable as it oxidizes and eventually turns degraded.
Mineral oil should not be used in lipstick without a cosolvent, such as isocetyl alcohol, because it is insoluble in castor oil and results in an unstable system with the mineral oil sweating out.
Many different oils, such as sunscreens and perfumes or tastes, can be added to lip balms to achieve specific effects. Any ingredients' stability must be thoroughly examined, particularly their resilience to repeated heating, often to fairly high temperatures. This is especially true for perfume or flavor.
Oleyl alcohol is a common co-solvent in lipstick. It promotes pigment dispersion and provides a nice skin feel with no taste or fragrance.
Many liquid esters, like isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate, can be used in lipsticks and other lip cosmetics, however, their usage is limited since numerous containers are constructed of polystyrene, which they both damage. Many of the long-chained esters available now have characteristics that are beneficial in lipsticks. They are frequently equally thick, and their viscosity increases with rising temperature, assisting in pigment dispersion. The use of liquid esters in lipsticks considerably improves the overall feel of the finished product. Many of the newer esters have smooth, silky application properties and can help reduce the greasy sensation of castor oil.
Lipsticks normally come in this specialized form of container, which is cylindrical and particularly intended for easy application while protecting the stick. Modern systems required more complex components that prevent volatile compounds from evaporating.
Technical Requirements and Raw Materials In The Production Of Lipstick
Throughout usage, the product should be smooth but not greasy; it should stick nicely to the skin of the lips, and the color should not spread or run throughout wear. It should stay on the lips for as long as possible and not migrate to other surfaces like cups (or shirt collars). When it comes to lipstick, the stick must be sufficiently strong to withstand stress, such as during application. However, an overly hard stick may be difficult to apply and force itself on the skin. Skin conditions and air holes should be avoided on the stick. The qualities of the stick should stay consistent during its life, therefore it is essential that the formulation remains stable over time and that particles of wax or oil do not accumulate on the surface, a phenomenon known as "sweating." These goods are frequently transported by the user and, as such, can be exposed to a wide range of temperatures. The stick should be unaffected by temperature fluctuations and should keep its application qualities at all times.Raw Materials
Because we are constantly rubbing our lips, a considerable percentage of the substance we apply to them is consumed; hence, the end formulation must be designed from edible or suitable for ingesting components with an acceptable flavor and fragrance.Oils, waxes, and pigments are the three primary types of raw ingredients used in lip cosmetics, with the ratios variable depending on the product type.
(a) Oils
When applied to the lips, any oils used in lipsticks must be smooth and not drag. They should provide shine and function as a medium for the pigments and crystals to be suspended in. They should also be free of oxidation and have a nice, or better not, taste or aroma.Castor oil is the most common oil found in lipsticks. It is quite thick and retains its viscosity even when heated, making it suitable as a suspending medium for colorants. It has a pleasant taste if high-quality ingredients are utilized. Castor oil, unlike most other oils, is soluble in alcohol and has surface action. Because of this, as well as its high viscosity, it is ideally adapted to the wetting and dispersion of pigments, a function that is critical during the manufacturing of lipsticks. One of the most often used waxes, beeswax, is primarily soluble in castor oil, resulting in an even more viscous but sticky solution that imparts drag to the finished formulation and helps prevent the product from 'creeping' or 'bleeding' into the small fine wrinkles around the lips.
The biggest downside of using castor oil is that it is inherently unstable. This can be addressed by adding a little number of antioxidants, such as butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT). Without them, both the smell and taste of the substance grow disagreeable as it oxidizes and eventually turns degraded.
Mineral oil should not be used in lipstick without a cosolvent, such as isocetyl alcohol, because it is insoluble in castor oil and results in an unstable system with the mineral oil sweating out.
Many different oils, such as sunscreens and perfumes or tastes, can be added to lip balms to achieve specific effects. Any ingredients' stability must be thoroughly examined, particularly their resilience to repeated heating, often to fairly high temperatures. This is especially true for perfume or flavor.
Oleyl alcohol is a common co-solvent in lipstick. It promotes pigment dispersion and provides a nice skin feel with no taste or fragrance.
Many liquid esters, like isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate, can be used in lipsticks and other lip cosmetics, however, their usage is limited since numerous containers are constructed of polystyrene, which they both damage. Many of the long-chained esters available now have characteristics that are beneficial in lipsticks. They are frequently equally thick, and their viscosity increases with rising temperature, assisting in pigment dispersion. The use of liquid esters in lipsticks considerably improves the overall feel of the finished product. Many of the newer esters have smooth, silky application properties and can help reduce the greasy sensation of castor oil.
(b) Waxes
Waxes are decadent solids with varying degrees of gloss and flexibility. They are used to add structure to lipsticks, as well as to help them hold their shape at high temperatures. All waxes utilized must be flexible but not brittle, as well as capable of retaining oils in their crystal structure. A blend of hard and soft waxes is employed to provide the consumer with the desired balance of application and stiffness.Waxes are classified into two types: natural and synthetic. Natural waxes are further classified as hydrocarbon waxes like paraffin wax, microcrystalline waxes like ozokerite, ceresine, and Montana waxes, vegetable waxes like candelilla, sugar cane, carnauba, Japan, and rice waxes, and animal waxes like beeswax and lanolin waxes.
Paraffin waxes are mostly linear hydrocarbon blends with molecular weights ranging from 300 to 400g/mole, melting points ranging from 45°C to 700°C, and a microcrystalline structure. They are transparent, odorless, tasteless, and rigid, with an oily texture. They are derived from crude oil distillation and represent the higher boiling fractions. They are hydrogenated after distillation. Because they are hydrocarbons, they are poorly soluble in castor oil, and excessive use can result in an unstable crystalline structure.
Bituminous products were initially used to produce mineral waxes such as ozokerite and ceresine. They are dark when unrefined and must be bleached to be aesthetically presentable, but they have been superseded by mixes of microcrystalline waxes and other oil products such as ozokerite and ceresine waxes.
Microcrystalline waxes are long-chained (mostly linear) saturated hydrocarbons with molecular weights ranging from 500 to 700g/mole. Their melting temperatures range from 600°C to 1200°C, allowing for a wide range of hardness, flexibility, adhesiveness, brightness, and oil absorption. Because microcrystalline waxes cannot be distilled without breakdown, they are obtained from the heavier ends of crude oil distillation via distinct solvent separation stages. They have tiny crystal sizes and absorb oil extremely effectively, which helps to keep the lipstick's crystal structure and avoid sweating. Their primary drawback is that they are only partially soluble in castor oil.
Candelilla wax is derived from the plant's Euphorbia cerifera and Euphorbia antisiphilitica, which grow in Mexico's stony deserts. Candelilla wax is largely made up of hydrocarbons and esters and has a melting point of around 700 degrees Celsius. It is a highly hard, brittle brown wax with a unique odor that is used to strengthen the bullet.
Vegetable waxes are found in plants for protection, with their primary purpose being to prevent evaporation of water from the leaves surface.
Carnauba wax is derived from the leaves of the Copernica prunifera (Tree of Life) palm tree in Brazil by cutting, drying, and beating the leaves. Yellow, grey, and brown are the available hues. It is a hard, brittle wax that is mainly esters (84-85%), has a high melting point of around 85 0C, and is employed to provide stick stiffness. As it cools, it contracts and so assists in molding by shrinking the stick away from the surface of the mold, allowing for simple removal.
Rice wax is produced by hydrogenating crude rice oil. It is cleaned with methanol and chloroform. It is largely made up of esters and has a melting point of around 75°C. It's a hard yellow wax with a foul scent.
Sugar cane wax is a by-product of the sugar-producing process. It is extremely hard and crystallizes well. It's mostly esters (78-82%).
Squeezing the berries of the Sumac tree yields Japanese wax. It is a brittle glyceride wax with a high molecular weight and a melting point ranging from 500°C to 56°C, as well as an oily texture and a fatty aroma. Its primary cosmetic application is in pencils.
The Animal Waxes - Beeswax is the most well-known animal wax. It is released by the bee's abdomen glands and then eaten by worker bees to form cells in the hives. The hue of raw beeswax varies depending on the plants that bees feed on, the number of leftover bee glues, and the age of the cell. Yellow and white beeswax is produced by impurity precipitation on a water layer, filtering with activated charcoal, and sun or chemical bleaching. The activated carbon also helps to reduce odors and insecticides. Beeswax has an oily, flexible feel, excellent plasticity, a fine crystal structure, and a sweet honey-like aroma. It is made up of around 70% fatty esters and 10-13% hydrocarbons. With a melting temperature of roughly 50-550 degrees Celsius, beeswax is one of the softer waxes used in lipsticks; it does not provide much stiffness to the system but is often utilized to aid the application of harder waxes. Too much beeswax in a formulation can cause poor crystallization and system stability, as well as a noticeable dragging effect during application.
Lanolin, commonly referred to as wool wax, is categorized as a wax even though it is fat. It is removed from wool using a water-detergent combination and then treated with an alkali to remove free acids and other impurities. After that, it is bleached, deodorized, and dried. Lanolin is mostly composed of aliphatic alcohol esters, sterols, and triterpenic alcohol.
(c) Colours
The shade of lipstick is the primary motivation for purchasing it. The most common colors are red variants ranging from pinks to deep reds. Many lipsticks include pearls to give the lips a high level of shine. Lips can be colored by either coating them with a pigment solution or staining them with a dye dissolved in lipstick.The following pigments and lakes are commonly found in lipsticks:
D&C Red No. 6 Ba Lake
D&C Red No. 7 Ca Lake
FD&C Red No. 3 Al Lake
FD&C Yellow No. 5 Al Lake
Dyes known as eosin dyes are used in certain lipsticks to stain the lips. This was once the sole technique to generate a 'long-lasting' impact. However, the resultant stain was frequently a considerably different hue from the lipstick when it was first applied. The usage of dyes in this manner has reduced in recent years due to the colors' acknowledged sensitizing potential.
Mica and bismuth oxychloride pearls are commonly used in lipsticks to provide sparkle to the lips. Bismuth oxychloride pearls also help with bullet shaping.
(d) Other Additives
1) PreservativesThe risk of bacteria or mold developing within the lipstick is low because it is normally completely anhydrous; nevertheless, if the product is applied to the lips after consuming a sweet drink, the surface may get polluted, allowing microbiological development. As a result, it is suggested that a little number of preservatives be included in the recipe. The preservative used must be safe to consume. As a result, methyl and propylparaben are the most often utilized, with amounts ranging from 0.05% to 0.20%.
2) Antioxidants
2) Antioxidants
Antioxidants are essential to prevent castor oil from oxidation. Other unsaturated materials, vegetable oils, or oxidation-prone components will also need to be included in the formulation. Only a very low amount, approximately 0.01-0.05%, is required. The most popular are BHT, BHA, and vitamin E, although oil-based mixes including these and propyl gallate, ascorbyl palmitate (vitamin C palmitate), or citric acid are now commercially available.
3) Addition Of Moisturiser
Many new products claim to provide extra advantages for lipstick. 'Moisturising' lipstick is a common term; the application of an oily film to the lips, which should keep them from drying out, should be enough to validate a moisturizing claim, while certain lipstickscan dry out the lips if the improper combination of waxes, esters, or oils is applied.
Traditional moisturizing ingredients can now be included in this completely anhydrous system. It should be noted that the bulk of them are often put into the water phases of creams and lotions, necessitating the need for specialized technologies to combine them into a lip product. This is often accomplished by producing a water-in-oil emulsion in which the exterior oil phase accounts for 99% of the product. Known moisturizing ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, can be included using specific emulsifiers.
4) UV protection claims are also common; simply coating the lips with a pigmented film will provide some UV protection, but higher amounts of conventional UV absorbents are now being incorporated. In some areas, the usage of microfine titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, often in combination with organic sunscreens, has resulted in unusually high SPF claims for lip products. These goods have a specific use like 'beach' products or ski products.
5) 'Long-lasting' is an assurance made by modern lipsticks. Marketing materials for them show no lipstick transferring to a glass, coffee cup, or, more significantly, clothing. As previously stated, the usual method of establishing a 'long-lasting' claim is to add one of the eosin dyes. To produce a long-lasting effect, it is now feasible to include film-forming chemicals in the foundation. Because the majority of them are water-based, the technology employed to include moisturizers is utilized.
6) By improving the affinity of the pigments for the skin, the use of treated pigments in the formulation can improve the wear characteristics. A similar effect may be achieved using encapsulated pigments.
7) Waxes made from silicone. Silicone oils are rarely used in conventional lipsticks. Silicones might have a negative impact on the formulation of castor oil-based lipsticks. In automated molding operations, low-viscosity silicone oils are utilized as mold release agents; nevertheless, the integration of too much-contaminated bulk or too many recycled bullets generates some extremely unusual surface characteristics on the bullets, particularly in highly pearlized hues. Small quantities of silicone waxes can, however, be included in classic methods.
8) The majority of new lipsticks released recently are based on volatile silicones. The volatile component is employed to transfer a film containing the pigments to the lips, resulting in a highly long-lasting product. Unfortunately, the standard lipstick mechanism is not ideal for this sort of product since it allows the volatile silicone to evaporate quickly, causing the stick to dry out. Slim-line lipsticks may, nevertheless, support this sort of system, although these components require specific filling equipment.
Traditional moisturizing ingredients can now be included in this completely anhydrous system. It should be noted that the bulk of them are often put into the water phases of creams and lotions, necessitating the need for specialized technologies to combine them into a lip product. This is often accomplished by producing a water-in-oil emulsion in which the exterior oil phase accounts for 99% of the product. Known moisturizing ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, can be included using specific emulsifiers.
4) UV protection claims are also common; simply coating the lips with a pigmented film will provide some UV protection, but higher amounts of conventional UV absorbents are now being incorporated. In some areas, the usage of microfine titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, often in combination with organic sunscreens, has resulted in unusually high SPF claims for lip products. These goods have a specific use like 'beach' products or ski products.
5) 'Long-lasting' is an assurance made by modern lipsticks. Marketing materials for them show no lipstick transferring to a glass, coffee cup, or, more significantly, clothing. As previously stated, the usual method of establishing a 'long-lasting' claim is to add one of the eosin dyes. To produce a long-lasting effect, it is now feasible to include film-forming chemicals in the foundation. Because the majority of them are water-based, the technology employed to include moisturizers is utilized.
6) By improving the affinity of the pigments for the skin, the use of treated pigments in the formulation can improve the wear characteristics. A similar effect may be achieved using encapsulated pigments.
7) Waxes made from silicone. Silicone oils are rarely used in conventional lipsticks. Silicones might have a negative impact on the formulation of castor oil-based lipsticks. In automated molding operations, low-viscosity silicone oils are utilized as mold release agents; nevertheless, the integration of too much-contaminated bulk or too many recycled bullets generates some extremely unusual surface characteristics on the bullets, particularly in highly pearlized hues. Small quantities of silicone waxes can, however, be included in classic methods.
8) The majority of new lipsticks released recently are based on volatile silicones. The volatile component is employed to transfer a film containing the pigments to the lips, resulting in a highly long-lasting product. Unfortunately, the standard lipstick mechanism is not ideal for this sort of product since it allows the volatile silicone to evaporate quickly, causing the stick to dry out. Slim-line lipsticks may, nevertheless, support this sort of system, although these components require specific filling equipment.
Best Ingredients For Lipstick
| Ingredients | % w/w |
|---|---|
| Castor Oil | 40.65 |
| Carnauba Wax | 5.00 |
| Beeswax | 4.00 |
| Candelilla Wax | 6.00 |
| Paraffin Wax | 2.00 |
| Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate | 5.00 |
| Lanolin Oil | 1.00 |
| Propylparaben | 0.10 |
| BHT | 0.05 |
| Titanium Dioxide 1:3 Paste | 12.00 |
| D&C Red No. 6 Ba Lake 1:3 Paste | 8.00 |
| D&C Red No. 7 Ca Lake 1:3 Paste | 6.00 |
| Timiron MPl00l (Merck KGaA) | 10.00 |
| Fragrance | 0.20 |
Lipstick Making Process
1) Collect all the required materials, including waxes, propylparaben, ester, castor oil, pigment pastes, pearl, fragrance, lined trays, and labels.2) Combine the waxes, propylparaben, ester, and castor oil in a heat-resistant container.
3) Melt the mixture over a low heat source, while stirring continuously to prevent scorching.
4) Once the mixture has melted, remove it from the heat source and stir until homogeneous.
5) Add the pigment pastes to the mixture while stirring continuously until they are fully incorporated.
6) Add the pearl to the mixture and stir until homogeneous.
7) Submit the mixture for color matching and add additional color as required until the color is approved.
8) Add the fragrance to the mixture and mix thoroughly.
9) Again stir the mixture so that it becomes homogeneous.
10) Run the mixture off into lined trays to set.
11) Wrap and label the set mixture.
12) Store the mixture until required for filling.
How Is Lipstick Made Step By Step
Prepare The Wax Foundation
Heat and blend different waxes and oils, including preservatives and antioxidants, in a jacketed stainless-steel vessel until clear and homogenous. The temperature required will depend on the melting point of the waxes used.Set The Wax Foundation
Pour the mixture into lined shallow trays to set, or use it immediately to make the entire formulation.Prepare The Color Pigments
Grind each dry powder pigment into a paste with castor oil in a 1:3 ratio. Swirl the pigment into the castor oil and allow it to stand for several hours or overnight before running it through a triple roller mill, colloid mill, or ball mill to properly incorporate the pigments into the castor oil. The milling operation is continued until the pigments are thoroughly dispersed.Mix The Wax Foundation And Color Pigments
In a stainless-steel jacketed jar, melt the wax foundation. Add any remaining castor oil and color pastes and mix them with a paddle stirrer. Add any pearls in the recipe, then add the scent, followed by the color-matched lipstick. Run the mixture off onto lined trays to set before shaping.Mold The Lipsticks
Use a 'split mold' to manufacture the lipsticks. Heat the mixture to around 800C and pour it through a tap into pre-warmed and greased molds, which are filled to the brim to allow for mass shrinkage during cooling. Place the molds on a cooling table or in a big fridge/freezer to set. When the bulk has entirely solidified, remove the mold from the chilling room, scrape away the surface lipstick, and recycle it. Gently open the mold and carefully extract the lipstick bullets and either deposit them directly into the lipstick cases or keep them in trays until finished.Smooth Away Surface Defects And Flame The Lipsticks
Once the lipsticks have been placed in the holders, carefully smooth away any surface defects and flame the lipsticks to give them their final shine. Flaming is a difficult operation that requires a lot of practice to attain the desired finish without melting the bullet. The lipstick is spun while being passed through a flame. On a bigger scale, the holders can be flamed while spinning in front of a flame or hot-air jet on a conveyor belt.Automatic Lipstick Machines
The majority of current lipsticks are made on automatic lipstick machines, of which there are many on the market. The machines pour the lipstick foundation via the bottom of the mechanical holder. This is given to the manufacturer with a plastic sheath affixed in the shape of the needed bullet, which serves as the mold for the lipstick.Cooling And Solidifying The Lipstick
The heated molds are greased initially with a little amount of oil, commonly a low-viscosity silicone fluid, before passing beneath the filling head and being injected with molten lipstick. They are chilled by refrigerated compartments as they go around the table and then pushed out of the molds by a little jet of compressed air directly into the cases. The filled holders are then put on a conveyor belt and pushed through a tunnel, rotating in front of hot air jets that 'burn' the surface to achieve the desired glossy sheen.Adding Caps And Labels
The belt then twists down the holder, allowing operators to insert the caps in position. The labels are then automatically added to the foundation, and the finished lipsticks are kept until dispatched or shrink-sleeved and displayed in retail display cases.I hope that you have liked the article on the formulation and preparation of lipstick. If you have any point please ask in comment.
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